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Uniqlo has sued Shein over accusations the Chinese fast-fashion e-tailer is selling copycats of its beloved “Mary Poppins” cross-body bag.
In a legal case filed last month in Tokyo, Uniqlo demanded the conglomerate’s Japanese arm, as well as its parent companies Roadget and Fashion Choice, immediately stop the sale of the “imitation products” – in this case, a dupe of its Round Mini Shoulder Bag – and pay compensation for damages incurred as a result of its sale.
“The Company filed this complaint because it has determined that the form of the imitation products sold by SHEIN closely resembles that of its own product, and that the sale of the imitation products by SHEIN significantly undermines the high level of customer confidence in the quality of the UNIQLO brand and its products,” the petition reads.
The Japanese company “takes a resolute stance against any act that infringes on its intellectual property and will take appropriate measures in response, including legal action”.
A spokesperson for Shein told The Guardian the retailer “respects the intellectual property rights of others and takes all claims of infringement seriously”.
“We are currently investigating this matter,” they added.
Videos of the Uniqlo product – likened to the magical carpetbag carried by Mary Poppins for its ability to fit in a surprising amount of items, despite its deceptively small appearance – have generated millions of “likes” on social media in the past year, particularly on TikTok.
Originally released in 2022, it shot to online fame when user @caitlinphilimore posted a 43-second video of herself going through what she kept inside: a tin of lip balm, packet of biscuits, a wallet, keys, phone charger, hair clip, over-ear headphones, her EpiPen, a camera, and a bottle of perfume.
The bag, which retails for $24.90 in Australia, is so popular it became Uniqlo’s best-selling of all time – selling out seven times in 2023. It was also dubbed “bag of the year” by global search platform Lyst, beating items from the likes of Bottega Veneta and Alaia.
Uniqlo previously told The Guardian that sales of the bag “increased dramatically off the back of the TikTok effect and continued to grow throughout the summer and winter months as this item continues to trend”.
Its filing against Shein is the latest in a growing number of copyright complaints against the company, which was founded in 2008 and has been marred by controversy – including allegations of labour abuse, poor garment quality and unsustainable and unethical manufacturing output.
Last year, Swedish retail giant H&M filed a copyright lawsuit in Hong Kong against Shein, as did accessories and apparel brand Chrome Hearts.
Similar accusations have been made online by small, independent business owners.
Shein has maintained that it “respects designers and artists, and the intellectual property rights of others”.
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