Sabyasachi Mukherjee blends nostalgia and maximalism for his 25th anniversary show

Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s 25th anniversary runway showcase was a confluence of everything his brand stands for: nostalgia, maximalism and, of course, a celebrated fan base. It also marked the designer’s long-awaited return to the runway.

Adhering to the “strictly black” dress code, the guest list was a hall of fame of his muses. Rani Mukerji, with whom he forayed into Bollywood with her film Baabul (2006), sat beside Alia Bhatt, who collaborated with the designer for her Met Gala look last year. Newlyweds Siddharth and Aditi Rao Hydari, who both tied the knot in Sabyasachi couture, joined Sobhita Dhulipala, another recent Sabyasachi bride. The star-studded lineup also included Sonam Kapoor, Ananya Panday, Bipasha Basu and Banita Sandhu.

For Sabyasachi, who is now focused on positioning his label as India’s first global luxury brand, this marked a rare runway moment, a reminder of his roots while hinting at the direction the label is headed. Here’s a closer look at the highlights from the show.

1. The setting

If there’s one thing that you can take away from Sabyasachi, it’s his version of a curated chaos. That’s where the aesthetic, the vibe of Sabyasachi Mukherjee the brand comes in. Jio World Convention Centre was turned into a set reminiscent of his store, that blended India’s storied past with a touch of contemporary, whether it was through his recurring Bengal tiger motifs or his tastefully scattered ceramics as décor, lined in the corners in different shapes and sizes. The runway felt like a movie set straight out of a Sanjay Leela Bhansali film. It paid an ode to old Calcutta, infused with the spirit of modern India. It encapsulated everything that the brand stands for.

2. The collection

Sabyasachi continues to champion maximalism, transforming India’s traditional embroidery into globally accessible iterations. The show note revealed the profound influence his grandmothers have had on him : “One taught me the power of minimalism, while the other showed me the dominance of maximalism.” This creative tension was evident in the collection’s seamless blend of bold and subtle, old and new. Menswear pieces included embroidered statement jackets over printed shirts and tailored trousers, oversized T-shirts with velvet pants, cropped jackets with baggy pants. A few quirky statement pieces included a bright pink “Dog Dad” jumper, a “Table For One” shift dress, and a red silk three-piece suit under a red velvet coat, among others.

3. The accessories

In the recent years, the designer has been leaning heavily into high jewellery, so not surprisingly, the accessories were the protagonist of the show, amplifying the drama in every look. From geek-chic glasses and oversized bows to floral headbands, and neck scarves, sometimes all in one look. Menswear looks featured layered neckpieces, sleek ties, and structured leather bags—from Bengal tiger-adorned slings to oversized totes. Printed caps and furry headgear made a bold statement, reaffirming the designer’s knack of turning accessories into statement pieces.

4. The supermodels

The casting included some of the OG supermodels from the past and the present. The show opened with model-turned-actress Deepika Padukone, who shares a special bond with Sabyasachi as the designer of her wedding attire. Her monochromatic OTT look set the tone for the rest of the show. But the show ended with 90s supermodel Christy Turlington in a fairly basic outfit of a sweater with baggy trousers, but adorned with a multitude of jewels. Other iconic models like Laxmi Menon, Indrani Dasgupta Paul, Sheetal Malhar and Carol Gracias’ presence infused the runway with a sense of nostalgia that the designer is known for.

5. The conclusion

The collection definitely pointed at the direction the designer sees his brand going in the future, which is to cement his place as a global luxury powerhouse by redefining the idea of “Indian couture” for the world. This was evident with the collection focusing predominantly on ready-to-wear separates, accessories and leather goods. With a strong focus on western markets, Sabyasachi is steadily establishing his place in the global luxury landscape, positioning “made-in-India” couture as a powerful contender on the international stage.