Antarctica Cruise South Shetland Island Half Moon Island

There was a question proposed to Peter Hillary, son of Sir Edmund Hillary when asked if it was a good idea to visit Antarctica. His response was as that “You have to see it to believe it, and then to want to save it.”

Peter is a veteran of Antarctic visits and this is his 43rd voyage to the seventh continent. Although his father found fame in the northern hemisphere it’s Antarctica that has captured his attention. He describes it as, “It’s a land apart still in the ice age at all times.” 98% of Antarctica is covered in white, the ice almost 5kms/3.1miles thick with the rocks providing the remaining 2% of colour. Antarctica is vast and it measures 14,000,000 km². Its size might surprise you as it is barely seen at the bottom of a world globe. Its size is equivalent to China and India together and it is almost as large as South America.

Currently Antarctica receives approximately 100,000 visitors each season and is surrounded by three oceans: the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian oceans. The currents are strongest is where the temperature difference is the greatest. During our trip, we will be exploring the western tip of Antarctica, the most ecologically diverse area dubbed “The Alps on the ocean” with its high peaks. It is the warmest and wettest area of Antarctica with the most diversity of species with around 10 species of bird spotted during every voyage. Not all of Antarctica is inhabited. For example, the interior is a desert with not a single entity, not even a fly.

It’s technically the third day of our Antarctica cruise, and we have made record time through the Drake Passage to reach Antarctica. The calming voice of expedition leader Jonathan Zaccaria comes over the loudspeaker in the morning to let us know that the outside temperature is 4°C/39.2°F and we have very calm seas. We are arriving at Barrientos Island, part of the South Shetland Islands. This is a small ice-free island and perfect for our first zodiac boat landing stepping foot on Antarctica.

I start to don all my layers, and that includes a bottom layer of thermal top and leggings. On top, I add a fitted puffer jacket and on my legs, I add snow pants and a beanie on my head, as well as technical gloves that will allow me to use my phone. The rest are of my outfit are waiting for me in the ship’s mudroom on the third floor. The ship has been divided into 4 groups: A, B, C and D. Group A is the first to be called so I make my way down. Everyone’s clothing has to be inspected and if there is lint or anything on the clothing it is carefully vacuumed. And when we step foot onto and into the zodiac boats our boots must be cleaned using a machine to ensure that there is no transfer or anything from landing to landing or ship. We are also not allowed to lie down or sit down once we get there and the only thing to touch the island is our boots. This is to ensure that we leave no trace of ourselves on each landing.

On the third floor, everybody is excited and rushing around and there is dance music playing. There’s a loud whoop from one corner and a woman hollers, “Get ready for the best day of your life!!!”. She’s actually one of the guest speakers who is scheduled to talk on another day. Thanks to the briefing, getting on and off the zodiac is a breeze and I feel safe and secure the entire time. I was warned that we might get wet on the zodiac, but we didn’t, and just in case I secure all my goods within a waterproof bag clipped to my jacket.

It’s a five minute boat ride from the ship across to Barrientos Island and already from the distance we can see thousands of penguins. This group of penguins is actually made out of two species of penguin Gentoo and Chinstrap, not normally seen together. All of the penguins on Barrientos Island are three months old. Penguin chick’s parents leave them to fend for themselves from a very young age. Each penguin chick has to learn how to live, feed and survive on its own.

The island is also full of guano (penguin poo) patterned like fireworks in pink, the colour is due to the penguin’s diet. 95% of the diet of Chinstrap penguins is made up of krill, a type of Antarctic crustacean. We walk past feathers from the penguins moulting and there are a couple of penguin carcasses. Everyone must stay at least 5 metres or 15 feet away from penguins and walk slowly because the ground is slippery and muddy underfoot, even in the boots provided.

We have an hour to explore the island this morning, and we spend it in the company of these extraordinarily adorable creatures, watching them talk to each other, waddle and then plunk down on their front exhausted. An hour goes by quickly, and we are soon climbing back onto the zodiac and heading back to the ship.

We just have enough time to drop off our things before heading to lunch. There’s a selection of warming dishes ready for us as well as fresh salad. I help myself to some shepherds pie, wholemeal pasta and some spinach and a bowl of chicken noodle soup.

After this meal, I head back to my room to work until the afternoon excursion is called. At 4:30pm we climb aboard the zodiac boats again to head to Half Moon Island. This small island measures 171 hectares or 420 acres. Normally this island is where the Argentine Cámara Base and scientific research station is located so before landing the Atlas ship’s crew checked beforehand they proceeded to set up a stop here.

It’s a remarkable landscape and this is where you can see that Antarctica is living and breathing, not just glacial stillness. We hear glaciers calving in the background, crackling loudly like a thunderstorm. The term “calving” actually describes the process where the glacier gives birth to an iceberg when it breaks off from the glacier. Fur seals and penguins call this island home and we watch some penguin chicks playing and swimming in the water porpoising back-and-forth.

The landscape is rugged and dramatic as if rendered in a black and white photo. We have the choice to go on a short or long hike. Long hikers go all the way up a mountain while short hikers walk along the beach negotiating the floor of rocks that line the beach.

This evening it’s International Women’s Day that features a panel of women speakers headed up by Sarah Pirie-Nally and seven other female business owners followed by dinner and a sparkle party where guests are encouraged to wear something sparkly.

This evening, dinner is a buffet and they alternate between buffet and à la la carte. If you prefer, you could have all of the buffet selection in the comfort of your room as well. Tonight’s selection consists of vitello tonnato, Magret or duck confit with sauerkraut, vegetables and the food stations have freshly carved tafelspitz and bowls of penne arrabbiata. And a corner piece of International Women’s Day cake.

As for me I can’t wait to go back to the room and check to see how my penguins pictures turned out.

Up Next: Day 2 of landings and seeing more penguins!

So tell me Dear Reader, have you ever wanted to visit Antarctica? Would you prefer the expedition style cruises where you get in zodiac boats or a cruise where you don’t make any landings?

NQN travelled to Antarctica as a guest of Qantas and Insider Expeditions but all opinions remain her own.

Insider Expeditions

https://insiderexpeditions.com/

Qantas

https://www.qantas.com/au/