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Rachel Scott’s Diotima Fall 2026 collection debuted during New York Fashion Week, drawing deep inspiration from the Afro-Cuban artistry of Wilfredo Lam. The designer’s latest line marries craft, symbolism, and modern sensibility, reflecting a collection both intensely personal and globally resonant.
After splitting her time between her debut at Proenza Schouler and her own Diotima brand, Rachel Scott delivered a collection steeped in artistic reverence. The inspiration stemmed from Lam’s oeuvre, characterized by Afro-Cuban symbolism, Caribbean spirituality, and European modernism. Works such as La Jungla, Femme Cheval, and Omi Obini informed the aesthetic direction, resulting in designs that engaged with Lam’s vision rather than merely reproducing it.
Craftsmanship remained central to Diotima’s identity. Organza intarsia on dresses was hand-made and expanded in scale, while fine-gauge merino knits, jacquards, and wool-silk digital prints added depth. Scott played with color intentionally — muted exteriors often gave way to vibrant interiors, creating subtle moments of surprise.
The human form was emphasized through translucent fabrics, layered knits, and pressed mohair with viscose lapels. An equestrian language informed several silhouettes, including riding jackets with exaggerated hips, elongated columns, and fringed details suggesting mane and whip. Knit belts and crystal mesh designs conveyed understated power, complementing high-neck, long-sleeve garments with exposed backs.
Outerwear made a tactile statement, featuring nubby, monumental coats in deep hues, many created in collaboration with New York’s Refugee Atelier. This partnership highlighted the skills of displaced women, weaving stories of resilience and shared human experience into the fabric itself.
The collection captivated front-row attendees, including Rama Duwaji, wife of New York City Mayor Zohran Mamdani, underscoring its cultural and social resonance. Scott’s work combined modernity, craft, and storytelling, presenting a collection that is both reflective and forward-looking.
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